What to expect when bringing home a Ziggy's rescue dog
DISCLAIMER: We are not professional dog trainers, vets or behaviourists. The following info, tips and tricks are based on years of experience in the dog rescue world. If serious behavioural or health issues arrise, always seek professional help!
Ziggy's Rescue occasionally takes in local owner surrenders, but we mostly work with remote communities in Northern Saskatchewan and Manitoba. We have a network of rescue organizations who we team up with to assist with the overpopulation in these communities. Being so remote, they have very limited or no access to veterinary care. Therefor these dogs remain free roaming and intact, resulting in lots of unwanted puppies and dogs. We strive to place these dogs into foster homes prior to arriving on Vancouver Island and placing them in a foster home on the island. When they have had their first vaccines and vet check-up and are ready for adoption, we start reviewing applications.
In general, our dogs have never had a steady food source and have survived by scavenging. They are not used to living indoors, have likely never been brushed, had never had their nails clipped or been walked on a leash. They have never been confined to a house and yard and are used to literally running wild and free. They usually know how to play really well with other dogs and are quite doggy-social. Their adoptive humans might view their counter surfing, resource guarding, barking, jumping, herding, nipping, and body slamming as overwhelming. Which is why we work with foster homes, where the dogs get a first glimps of living as a family pet, which gives them the most chances of becoming a balanced addition to their new family.
Is adopting a dog through a rescue more work than getting a dog elsewhere? Not necessarily. There are plenty of different ways to aquire a dog. There are ethical purebred breeders, backyard breeders, puppy mills, pet stores, "a friend of a friend" whose dog had a litter, or buying a dog off the Internet. But all these dogs might come with their own issues. They might be poorly socialized with other dogs, not vet checked or not housetrained and will rarely come with a spay or neuter contract.
Ziggy's Rescue occasionally takes in local owner surrenders, but we mostly work with remote communities in Northern Saskatchewan and Manitoba. We have a network of rescue organizations who we team up with to assist with the overpopulation in these communities. Being so remote, they have very limited or no access to veterinary care. Therefor these dogs remain free roaming and intact, resulting in lots of unwanted puppies and dogs. We strive to place these dogs into foster homes prior to arriving on Vancouver Island and placing them in a foster home on the island. When they have had their first vaccines and vet check-up and are ready for adoption, we start reviewing applications.
In general, our dogs have never had a steady food source and have survived by scavenging. They are not used to living indoors, have likely never been brushed, had never had their nails clipped or been walked on a leash. They have never been confined to a house and yard and are used to literally running wild and free. They usually know how to play really well with other dogs and are quite doggy-social. Their adoptive humans might view their counter surfing, resource guarding, barking, jumping, herding, nipping, and body slamming as overwhelming. Which is why we work with foster homes, where the dogs get a first glimps of living as a family pet, which gives them the most chances of becoming a balanced addition to their new family.
Is adopting a dog through a rescue more work than getting a dog elsewhere? Not necessarily. There are plenty of different ways to aquire a dog. There are ethical purebred breeders, backyard breeders, puppy mills, pet stores, "a friend of a friend" whose dog had a litter, or buying a dog off the Internet. But all these dogs might come with their own issues. They might be poorly socialized with other dogs, not vet checked or not housetrained and will rarely come with a spay or neuter contract.
|
|
So WHY would you adopt a Ziggy’s dog? Because rescued dogs are SOOOO full of love!!! They are so willing to conform that most of their behaviours are easily dealt with and generally resolve within weeks (with proper routine and realistic expectations). They tend to be incredibly eager to please. In the right setting, they quickly understand that their humans will guide them and the humans set the rules and boundaries for them. The key is to assume the role as your dog's guide and be firm about setting boundaries in a kind, calm, respectful manner. In a new situation certain behaviours MAY resurface, but should be easily and quickly handled. This is why all our dogs go into foster care first. We do our best to assess them to ensure they are ready for their new homes and matched to the right families. Some are ready in just days, others may take months before we feel like they are ready. We commonly place puppies fairly quickly, and expect our adopters to ensure they engage in ongoing training and take the pup to basic obedience training classes. This helps dogs and humans learn together, which is the foundation needed for a long, happy partnership. We also back up our adoptions 100%, with follow up training assistance and a Facebook group where all our adopters can join to share experiences, tips, pictures and stories. If for whatever reason the match fails, it is part of our contract that the dog gets returned to Ziggy's Rescue so we can rehome the dog.
Here are a few tips and tricks when bringing your new family member home:
Here are a few tips and tricks when bringing your new family member home:
|
DECOMPRESSING: When arriving in their new forever home, the dog has already been through a TON of changes. They have been rescued from their free-roaming existance, placed in a foster home, transported to Vancouver Island, placed into a local foster home, had their first vet visit and are now in yet another home with people they don't know and trust yet. Many adopters make the mistake of wanting to "show off" their new family member. And we get it, adopting a dog is very exciting! However, if you want your dog to have a successful transition, GIVE THEM TIME TO DECOMPRESS. In the first weeks, don't take them on exciting walks or adventures (stay close to home). Don't bring them to visit friends and family (and ask people to not visit your home during this period). Don't let your dog interact with every single dog they meet on walks (start with introducing them to well balanced, friendly dogs you personally know). If you give your dog time to get to know you and their new home and start bonding with you, they will be WAY more successful and ready to face these new experiences.
|
|
SLEEPING: As tempting as it may be, DO NOT let your new dog sleep with you, until boundaries have been established. It's important to set clear expectations from the start. They can sleep on a dog bed, bench, crate,...either in the bedroom or in a separate room; that is up to you. But ensure you establish a “safe place” where they can escape to when they need to rest or want a “time out”. This is NOT to be confused with a spot for punishment! This is supposed to become THEIR spot for safety and privacy. After you and your dog have established a solid foundation and clear boundaries, you could invite them to sleep with you, if you wish to do so.
|
|
EATING/FEEDING: Never feed a new dog around other pets or around children until you fully understand their attitude around food. An unexpected movement could startle the dog into inappropriate behaviour. Many choose to feed the dog in their crate, reinforcing that this is THEIR spot for safety and privacy. As many of our dogs have never had a reliable food source, you may want to break up their daily ration into multiple feedings. Free feeding may not be an option as they may feel the need to gorge (leading to upset stomach, vomiting or diarrhea) as they may not trust there will be more food coming.
DOG FOOD: Please choose your dog food with care. Dog food does not need to be expensive, but do take the time to work out cost per serving and look at the quality. Look at the ingredients; ideally you will see some form of meat in the first three ingredients. Avoid brands (basically anything from a local supermarket) that list grains or other fillers in the first three ingredients. It may seem less expensive per bag, but you will have to feed FAR more per portion, as they are full of un-digestible fillers making the cost “per portion” much more; PLUS you will have a whole lot more poop to clean up as the body eliminates all the nutrient lacking fillers. COUNTER SURFING/FOOD THEFT: Commonly our dogs have never been properly “fed” by humans and have survived by scrounging for whatever is available. It may take a while (in some cases, it is forever) for them to learn that there is no longer a need to take/steal/hoard anything edible that makes itself available! DO NOT EVER feed a dog from the table or while you are eating. In fact, bar the dog from the kitchen/dining area if this behaviour is an issue, using a closed door or babygate. |
|
REWARDS/TREATS: Rewards could be special toys or activities, but more often than not dogs are motivated to learn by earning treats. A common problem with dogs is obesity. Take the time to familiarize yourself with what a dog at a “healthy” weight looks like. Please do not fall into the trap of equating how much you love your dog with the giving of treats – would you allow your toddler to eat candy and chips several times a day, simply because they asked? Treats do not have to be fancy – literally ANYTHING that comes from your hand has high value and is considered a treat, by most dogs. It can be as simple as a kernel of kibble or a carrot stick, broccoli, cut up hotdog, popcorn,… Do not feel you need to spend money on pricey “dog treats” that are more often than not the equivalent to humans eating candy and chips. Try to keep them nutritious and limited. Use them to reward GOOD behaviour, redirect, or initiate a trade. Don't hand them out "for free". Use them as training incentives. It's all about timing. Do you want to interrupt barking? Make sure you get your dog's attention by giving them a simple, known command like "sit". Once they sit quietly and give you their attention, reward! DO NOT reward snatching or other rough behaviour. This may mean keeping the treat in a tightly closed fist before allowing them to actually have the reward. When training and using a lot of treats, think about the calorie intake and make their meals smaller to compensate.
RESOURCE GUARDING: When free roaming in a community, these dogs may have been used to fighting over resources (and defending it once they have gained the resource). This means they may be nippy around toys, food or other valuable resources. This is not necessarily aggression, but it does need to be tackled. It can require redirection – do not snatch or pull the item away from them. Instead, offer a higher value TRADE of a suitable toy or treat. DO NOT play “tug” games when this behaviour occurs. Offer a trade and teach them a command to release, for example “DROP IT” or “TRADE”. Dogs do not typically know what the word "No" means, as it gets overused by us humans. Instead, it is beneficial to slowly teach your dog new commands and concepts. |
|
BARKING: Our dogs can be more vocal than others. They were used to 100% free roaming and running – they have never been confined to a house or yard. A residential situation may not offer the exercise they require if not regularly walked. This can also be an issue of not knowing their boundaries. Think of it as them trying to warn you of an impending danger. When you refuse to “come and take a look”, the behaviour will simply become more and more frantic and ingrained. Therefor, ALWAYS physically go and see what they are barking at, acknowledge it (the person, dog, squirrel etc.) as an acceptable presence. Stop, look, acknowledge (for example by saying "thank you"), move on. You may have to redirect your dog if the barking continues.
|
Here are some resources you might find useful prior to welcoming a new dog into your home and during the transition:
YouTube dog training channels using modern, non-confrontational techniques, supported by the latest science on dog psychology:
https://www.youtube.com/c/zakgeorge
https://www.youtube.com/c/McCannDogs
Trainers on Vancouver Island:
Port Alberni and surrounding areas:
https://www.dizinecanine.com/#about
https://albernivalleykennelclub.wordpress.com/classes/
Nanaimo and surrounding areas:
https://bestpaw.squarespace.com/
Duncan and surrounding areas:
https://dogtrainerscowichan.com/
Other useful information:
Online courses and pet care info from a local vet/trainer
https://dogtraining.academy/courses/
https://www.drjeffgrognet.com/blog